Swipe for the works and stories worth knowing before you go.
Guernica (Picasso, 1937): the faces under the paint
Infrared scans by the museum's restoration team show Picasso changing his mind on the canvas. The fallen soldier at the bottom was first painted upside down and only turned once the picture was well advanced, and his reworked head hides many eyes. More eyes lie buried under the white paint of the bull's head.
museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, gigapixel and multispectral study
Guernica's room was once a war hospital ward
During the Civil War this building was Hospital Clínico Número 4, run by the Republic's Ministry of War, and it treated more than 30,000 people hurt in bombings and fighting. According to the museum, Room 205.10 nursed survivors of raids by the Condor Legion, the air force that bombed Gernika. The painting of an air raid hangs where its survivors were cared for.
museoreinasofia.es: Room 205.10, Guernica · museoreinasofia.es: Guernica
Kill Lies All: Guernica sprayed in New York, 1974
On 28 February 1974, at MoMA, Tony Shafrazi sprayed KILL LIES ALL across Guernica in red, a protest, the museum says, at Nixon's pardon of William Calley, the only officer tried over the My Lai massacre. A varnish MoMA had added in 1962 let the paint come off, but macrophotographs still find tiny red traces in the cracks.
museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, Tony Shafrazi · museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, gigapixel and multispectral study
The hospital that was nearly knocked down for offices
Work on Sabatini's hospital stopped after Charles III died in 1788, with only about a third of it built. After it closed in the late 1960s, a report proposed demolishing all but the courtyard fountains and stairs, and it was sold to a workers' mutual fund for its headquarters. The sale was cancelled, and a 1977 Royal Decree protected the building.
museoreinasofia.es: From Hospital to Museum · museoreinasofia.es: The Construction of the Hospital General
Un mundo (Ángeles Santos, 1929)
Ángeles Santos was 17 when this three-metre canvas dazzled Madrid's 1929 Autumn Salon; the writer Ramón Gómez de la Serna called it a revelation. Painting in Valladolid, she had never seen Europe's avant-garde first-hand, and met Miró and German New Objectivity through the illustrations in a book by Franz Roh. Find it in Room 205.06.
museoreinasofia.es: Un mundo (A World) · museoreinasofia.es: Room 205.06
Guernica: the painting Picasso refused to give Franco
Picasso left Guernica at MoMA in New York for safekeeping and in 1958 extended the loan indefinitely. When Franco's regime asked for it in 1968 for a planned Spanish museum of contemporary art, he said no, and in 1970 repeated that it belonged to the Spanish people once their freedoms returned. It reached Spain in 1981.
museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, Guernica according to Picasso · museoreinasofia.es: Guernica
La femme au vase (Picasso, 1933)
This bronze has a twin: the other of its two casts stands on Picasso's grave at Vauvenargues. In 1937 the figure was cast in concrete, alongside three of his large heads, and placed outside Spain's pavilion at the Paris fair, the pavilion Guernica was made for. A 1987 model of that lost building is in the same room, 205.09.
museoreinasofia.es: La femme au vase (Woman with Vase) · museoreinasofia.es: Model of the Spanish Pavilion, Paris 1937
Guernica's scars: clamps, rolling and wax that won't come out
The first stretcher, replaced in 1964, had no wedges, so the huge canvas was pulled tight with clamps that tore and holed its edges, and repeated rolling for travel cracked the paint. At MoMA in 1957, flaking paint was fixed with molten wax and resin heated in from the back. It soaked the whole canvas, can't be undone and glows under UV light.
museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, gigapixel and multispectral study · museoreinasofia.es: Rethinking Guernica, restoration report
Jean Nouvel's red roof (Nouvel Building, 2005)
Jean Nouvel won the 1999 competition for the extension against eleven other firms, among them Zaha Hadid, Tadao Ando and Dominique Perrault. Stand in the triangular courtyard and look up: his red lacquered-aluminium roof lines up with the old hospital but stops just short of touching its cornice.
museoreinasofia.es: Jean Nouvel's Intervention · museoreinasofia.es: History
Mujer en azul (Picasso, 1901)
Picasso painted this woman in Madrid in 1901, borrowing the composition from Velázquez's portrait of Queen Mariana of Austria. It went unnoticed at that year's national fine arts exhibition, he left for his first solo show in Paris before it closed, and the canvas was forgotten for decades. It hangs in Room 201.02.
museoreinasofia.es: Mujer en azul (Woman in Blue)